Testing the waters in Thailand

We went below surface three hours southeast of Bangkok, at Ban Phe, on a safe distance from the clubs in Pattaya. The water was warm, very warm: around 28 degrees centigrade. Air temperature 35. Anyway, just ten minutes from the beach are several small islands, part of the protected area around the big island of Ko Samet. Ko Samet became a national park 1981. We snorkeled for a couple of hours, and saw this amazing array of colourful giant clams (of the family Tridacnidae). They were very close to the surface, and quite big.

One of the big advantages of staying on the Thai eastern coast is that the rainy period is not as wet as in other parts of the country, and the temperature is not as high during the hot season. Not to mention that you don't risk another tsunami. There are also less tourists, at least south of Pattaya. But that is sure to change.

The water is supposed to be cleaner than further up towards Bangkok, where there is a lot of industries and quite a bit of pollution. Unfortunately, just a couple of weeks ago there have been a lot of garbage floating ashore: it seems someone out on Ko Samet keeps dumping their garbage in the sea.

The food is wonderful, and small restaurants on the beach light up their barbecue every evening to grill sea bass, grouper, shrimp, crab and lobster. Fresh and cheap, you cannot eat better. Singha, the famous beer served in big bottles, is the preferred drink.

Several real estate companies build houses in this area and sell to Swedes, running away from the unforgiving cold and darkness of the Nordic winters. Compared to Sweden the houses are not very expensive, but even so I would recommend buyers to be cautious. At the very least, they should visit Thailand several times, for at least one extended period, before investing. It is not always easy to move to another continent, and all expectations are not always fulfilled.

When we were snorkeling, small fish swam around us, and the bravest even tried to nibble feet and arms to check if we were edible. We tried to pretend we were not. All the time in the water you have this clicking, kind of electric sound in your ears. You might feel as if you are floating in outer space, but the sea is far from silent.

When the new airport opens to the east of Bangkok, the international traveler will be able to shave almost one hour off the trip to Rayong and the nice beaches east of Ban Phe. We stayed at Novotel Rayong, which was fine. One thing to remember: wear mosquito protection when having dinner in the garden, the fish ponds they have there are breeding grounds for our blood-sucking enemies.

This is what Georgia O'Keefe would have been painting, had she been going down with a snorkel.

In Thailand they drive on the left-hand side of the road, just like we used to do in Sweden up until 1967. It takes some time to get used to it again. Do you know how many countries still do? 74, with around 34 percent of the worlds population. Full story here.

When you get too close, or your shadow moves over the giant clam, it contracts and closes the shell. Some of them reacted the opposite way, being both curious and self-confident, opening up for the unexpected visitor. We kept our distance.
Learn more about the giant clams here!